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Thread: 8mm processing and developing

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    Inactive Member rudymtz's Avatar
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    Hi,
    I was wondering if some of you guys could help me out with a question I have. I found some old 8mm film in my home, and I have been looking for someone to process the film down here in Mexico. Apparently, no one down here does anything with 8mm film, so, I was wondering if I could process it myself. What kind of chemicals could I use, can I use regular film chemicals, or what kind of chemicals should I get or make.

    Thank You
    Rudy Martinez

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    Senior Hostboard Member BolexPlusx's Avatar
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    Is that Monterrey in Nuevo Leon? I've spent a lot of time in Reynosa, Tamaulipas for work. I always wanted to visit Monterrey but never got over there.

    Maybe these will get you started:

    http://8mm.filmshooting.com/communit...processing.php

    http://www.siltec.co.uk/amovies/prom/prom300.htm

    The important thing to know to start is that you can't process Kodachrome at home, it's way too complicated. Plus-X, Tri-X and Ektachrome you can, though.

    <font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ May 29, 2004 09:57 AM: Message edited by: BolexPlusx ]</font>

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    Inactive Member monobath's Avatar
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    Processing B&W is fun and easy. If your film is B&W, you can probably try something like the following:

    Use Russian Lomo spiral tank. Use Kodak D-94 for the first developer, Dektol 1:3 for the second developer. Kodak R-9 bleach, and Kodak CB-2 clearing bath. Kodak recommends a hardening fixer like F-10, but I just use whatever
    I have on hand. All of these formulas are on Kodak web site, but I'll go ahead and give them to you here.

    First, the processing steps. The process given by Kodak is for processing movie film at 20C (68F):

    First Developer, 2 min at 20C (68F)
    Wash, 30 seconds (plain water, do NOT use a stop bath)
    Bleach, 50 seconds
    Wash, 30 seconds
    Clearing Bath, 30 seconds
    Wash, 30 seconds
    Reexposure, 800 foot-candle seconds
    Second Developer, 50 seconds
    Wash, 30 seconds
    Fixer, 50 seconds
    Wash, 2 minutes

    You'll have to extend all of those times quite a bit if you are using the Morse G3 tank. It's the amount of time that the film spends between reels that counts. Save yourself some trouble and use the Russian Lomo spiral tank.

    Formulas:

    Kodak D-94

    Water, 50 degrees C (125 F) 750 ml
    Kodak Elon (Metol) 0.6 g
    Sodium Sulfite (anhydrous) 50.0 g
    Hyrdoquinone 20.0 g
    Potassium Bromide (anhydrous) 8.0 g
    (or 7.0 g Sodium Bromide)
    Sodium Thiocyanate (liquid) 9.1 ml
    Sodium Hydroxide 20.0 g
    Water to make 1.0 L


    Kodak Bleach R-9

    Water 1.0 L
    Potassium Dichromate (anhydrous) 9.5 g
    Sulfuric Acid (Concentrated)* 12.0 ml
    * CAUTION: Always add the sulfuric acid to the solution slowly, stirring
    constantly, and never add the solution to the acid; otherwise, the solution
    may boil and splatter the acid, causing serious burns.

    (Note: I substituted 24.0 ml regular automotive battery acid for the 12.0 ml
    concentrated Sulfuric Acid. I've also read somewhere that you can
    substitute 66g Sodium Bisulfate for the Sulfuric Acid.)


    Kodak Clearing Bath CB-2

    Water 750 ml
    Sodium Sulfite (anhydrous) 210.0 g
    Water to make 1.0 L

    I won't bother with the fixer recipe. Just use any
    hardening fixer. Kodak regular F5 pre-packaged fixer will work fine.

    Processing b&w movie film is a lot of fun, and it is
    especially rewarding when you finally spool it up and
    project it.

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